If you have two hammers, how many nails do you see?
I’m in Boston. I had planned to give up fermented foods during this trip and see what happened. Too hard, it turned out. Sitting in a diner, I wondered: where can I get kombucha? The diner sold a bunch of bottled drinks: juice and soft drinks. Foods that taste exactly the same each time, which I call ditto foods and which I believe caused the obesity epidemic. (Because their taste — actually, their smell — is so uniform, a very strong smell-calorie association can build up, making them very tasty and very fattening. Ditto foods are the laser beams of food.) I realized these drinks were exactly the opposite of what I wanted. Fermented foods, because they involve growing bacteria, are inherently more variable than other foods. It is hard to keep constant from batch to batch everything that affects bacterial growth.
Funny thing: the growth in childhood asthma and allergies, now called an epidemic, started at roughly the same time as the obesity epidemic — around 1980. Around 1980, people started to eat a lot more fast food, snack food, and microwaved food (from packages). All ditto foods. All bacteria-free. In home cooking, I think fewer precautions are taken to wipe out all bacteria. You eat what you’ve made soon after cooking, whereas factory food might be eaten weeks or months after production. So factory food has preservatives — and I think the result is overkill, just like antibiotics.
Looking at the food I could buy in Boston was like looking at a post-apocalyptic landscape. Dead food everywhere. Supermarkets, diners, fancy restaurants. Dead food is uniform food; food manufacturers had bludgeoned their products into uniformity. At a Cordon Bleu cooking school, judging from promotional literature, not a word is said about fermented food. In advanced-thinking Cambridge, which you might think would support fermented foods, I found only two stores that sold kefir and only three that sold kombucha. Many people complain about what they call “processed food” but the actual problem is food not processed enough (by bacteria). A better complaint would be about dead food.
I suspect fermented foods are avoided by commercial food makers not only because they are more variable than other food and contain scary bacteria, but also because they are more expensive to make: They require more space and time. The stuff must sit somewhere, taking up space, for days or even weeks, while it ferments. At home, it’s easy: You make it and put it somewhere, and go away and do something else. In a factory devoted to making food, there is nothing else to do and no free space. The monoculture problem.